I finally have the strength and inspiration to write about my Japan adventure. I did start my vlog but I guess I'm just not really meant for it. LOL. Writing is more of my thing. I decide to make this post less boring and just write some extraordinary things that I got to know and experience during my 4 months living in Japan. You might think it is easy to just list down all of it. In reality, it takes so much emotion for me to remember again all the ups and downs that i went through. Here is a bit of my love-hate relationship with Japan in a list of moments:
Disclaimer: the photos have nothing to do with the post😂
1. Comparing Japan governmental system with Indonesia
When I was preparing sukiyaki in my friend's house, she showed me a box full of meats that we're going to eat. Those meats were actually sent by government. It was a gift for donating part of her city tax to the other city. Nowadays, since everyone moves to big cities, it causes inequality in tax income. Therefore, they have initiative for the citizen to donate a part of their tax to other city/village that have less tax income. The citizen pay the usual amount of money, all they have to do is sign the agreement. In return, they will get dairy products from the donated city, in my friend’s case it was meat. I really think that Indonesia needs to do this as well, since there are so many left-out-province. But it is nearly impossible since even now in our country not everyone is paying tax and there are so many corruption regarding the tax.
My Japanese friend also showed me her ID Card, which interest me too. Basically, japanese identity card is some sort of flashdisk which contain important documents such as birth certificate and family card and it needs kind of pin number like an ATM to access. Everything is stored virtually, you don't have to worry about any incident (natural disaster or maybe fire) that could vanish your real document. Sadly, when we, Indonesian, could possibly make that happen with the e-KTP project in Indonesia, yet you know how it ended up regarding the corruption case.
Last but not least, let's talk about health insurance system in Japan. Well, definitely everyone in Japan is obligated to have their health insurance. In Indonesia, we also have BPJS system. But in Japan the health insurance can be used anywhere and everyone gets the same treatment. It is really cheap (I went to 3000 yen to doctor once, but with insurance it's only 900 yen). Compared to BPJS which can only be used in selective hospitals and even has different treatment for BPJS holder from normal patients. Therefore most of middle to rich people choose not to use BPJS.
I couldn’t help it but wonder, when can we have this kind of effective, modern and convenience governmental system?
2. Being totally naked in Onsen/ public bath
I was really thrilled on my first attempt doing this. For Japanese, hot bath is not just a recreation. It is part of their lifestyle. It's like a reward for themselves since they are generally hard-working. It's also part of family bonding time (mom-daughter, father-son). Don't worry, they separate men and women area. Basically we have to be totally naked from the locker room. And we are not allowed to bring any towel to the bath area. At first, I was really aware of myself and everyone else (yes I was kinda stare awkwardly at others). But in my second and third times, I already get used to it and even it grows confidence in me towards my body. We have to wash ourselves before going inside the bath (they provide the shower place in an open area). Inside, they usually have a few kind of jacuzzi that varies in water temperature and water pump style. While bathing, I'd usually have a deep talk session with my friend. After bathing, Japanese usually drink a glass of milk. Onsen costs variously from cheap to expensive, but personally I think it is affordable and really accessible all over Japan. I did it twice a month while in Japan.
One of my unique Onsen experience was in Hakone. They have various baths that water contains either wine, green tea, coffee, chocolate and many more! They use real ingredients and pour it every 6 hours, interesting right?
3. Travelling alone for 8 hours from Tokyo to Nagano
I must say living abroad is not complete without doing any solo trip on your own. I visited my friend in Nagano. Since I didn’t have much money, I couldn’t take the famous Shinkansen. Instead I used local trains (JR lines) that required me to change 4 different trains during my 8 hours journey. I stopped by at some beautiful villages which have amazing views. I used an app to plan my trip so it wasn’t that hard to manage my train routes. Unfortunately since Japan has hundreds of train routes everyday, I mistook my first train and it definitely ruined my whole plan, cause I had to miss my second train. I thought that was it, but when I arrived in my last transit also I missed the last train. I saw an express train that is going to my destination, but I couldn't use that train due to my local-only train ticket, they are different. I didn't know how to buy ticket for this express one. Desperate and having no other options, I recklessly jumped in the express train and pretended to be a foreigner who don't know anything. lol. Still I was really panicked the whole time. When the officer came, I started acting confused. Yet he was so nice and asked me to pay the normal ticket price directly to him. Man, I did it haha
Finally, arriving in my last destination and guess what? I also missed the last buss to my friend's house. It was 12 o’clock in the middle of the night and I had to walk 2 kilometres. To add more drama, my phone was dead while I’m using the google maps. Apparently in Japan you couldn't charge your phone in public area (ex: restaurant), they don't provide it. I once charged my phone in toilet by unplugging the dried machine haha. Back to topic, so I walked 500 metres with no direction in the middle of winter, I was nervous. I stopped at a Familymart, just sat there and drank tea trying to figure out what to do when suddenly my phone was on again! Turned out the battery was just dropped because of the cold temperature and it went up automatically after I warm it up (that sounds weird, but it happened). Right when you think you're doomed, the world has its own way to save you. That's what I love about solo travelling! I texted and called my friend and she ended up coming to pick me, with bicycle, on winter. Life is really an adventure :)
4. Dragging a very heavy suitcase with my mom with no one offering help
I've been travelling to many countries in Europe. I'm used to drag my own heavy suitcase, but specifically when I had to drag my luggage through the stairs, there will always be people offering me help. To me it's common sense for a man to help a lady with their heavy luggage. Maybe I couldn’t compare it, but in Japan it’s different. I was picking up my mom from the airport and we took train to get to my house. In some stations, they don't have elevator nor lift. My mom is 60 years and we're dragging the huge luggage upstairs. It was a crowded day and guess what? Not even a single person stare, they just go straight walking. Not a single fuck was given. It's also happening on my last day in Japan, I brought my suitcases (yes 3 of it with total 40 kgs) with a help of my girl friend. It was worse, we were walking slowly because It's heavy and people would just keep walking fast and hit us if we were standing on their way.
This carelessness also happens on train. In Japan, I've never seen anyone gives seat to woman or old people. One time, when my boyfriend was visiting me, he wanted to give the seat to an old woman and I said no need. I was surprised of how I have accustomed to the carelessness. Back in Indonesia, (well, not exactly every man) some men would even give their seat to woman. Everyone ALWAYS gives seat to the elders. I did have a talk with my Japanese friends about why is this happening. Japanese has this politeness culture rooted deep inside them. They are afraid to offend the elders if they treat them as a weak person. So they choose not to offer the seat at all, instead of feeling impolite and making a scene!
5. Being drunk and must drag myself to the train before 00.30 AM
First thing first, alcohol in japan is insanely cheap. You can also find alcohol everywhere here, even in Seven Eleven. Personally, I don't really like the taste of sake, but I really am in love with Japanese plum-based wine called Umeshu. It tastes really fresh, unlike normal wine. You can feel your body warms up after a few sips. Very cheap and you can find it everywhere.
The tricky part about being drunk in japan is going home. First of all, taxi is an option exist only for rich people. The train is the best possible and affordable way. But the last train in weekend only running until 00.30. (weekdays at 00.00). So yeah, people in here get drunk and must drag themselves to the train. I have experienced being in a last train that is full of drunk ppl. It's like being in a zombie train! lol. Dragging my drunk friends to the stations and then walk to my house in winter was one hell of unforgettable experience. It's like a curfew, cinderella must go home even if she's drunk lol.
Drinking alcohol is like a lifestyle in Japan. Because of their politeness, Japanese cannot really express themselves. They are constantly restricted by manners and must making others feel good. Also their hard-working culture makes it hard to socialise during work. Being drunk is the only way for them to express themselves and befriend their coworkers as who they are. Interesting huh?
6. Never have to wait for a train more than 5 minutes in Tokyo
I'd go explaining about how Tokyo train system works (based on what I know). They have 3 kinds of commuter line:
1. JR : railway line
2. Toei : subway/underground line
3. Metro : for both line (you can actually get into the train underground and get out on the ground)
It's not really confusing because actually you just have to follow what google maps told you and you only need one card (kind of e-Money or Flazz in Indonesia) for all the lines. They also have different kind of commuter routes:
1. Local train : Stops in every station
2. Semi express: Stops in only a few stations
3. Express: Stops only in big stations
Can you imagine how smart it is???? if only jakarta also have this kind of options, how helpful it is for the workers!
What really amazing is they have train for every 5 minutes and they are always on time!!! They have the board that show how more minutes till the next train. Idk why in Jakarta the board only show where is the current position of the train. It's not like i can predict the exact arrival by that. Thanks Japan for being so smart.
The way people line up to get inside the train is also impressive. Of course they will wait for all passengers who wants to go out first. People respect each other. If they stand near the door, they will get out to allow people from inside to walk out. Also in the train, you are not allowed to take phone call. It's to make others comfortable. I must admit I really enjoy using public transportation in Japan. It is not that cheap but worth it. The system, the environment and people are really convenient. Compared to Indonesia, where even an educated adult don't know how to queue.
7. Doing ski for the first time in the middle of heavy snow rain
The thing about living abroad is doing a lot of things for the first time. I always thought that ski is only for rich people because it looks expensive. Also I'm not really into speed adrenaline stuff. But I finally got a chance to do it in Nagano. I went with my friend who kinda doing this as a hobby. She's an expert and really taught me from scratch, I’m so lucky. The first one hour, I could only slide backwards, unintentionally. It even took me 15 minutes just to stick my shoes to the ski. And it's snow raining real hard. I couldn’t even count how many times I fall frontward, backward, and hit all of my body parts. The hardest part of ski is getting up after you're falling because the snow makes it so slippery and you will move down while trying to get up. Evenmore, the equipment is so heavy so you have to actually gather all your strength. But every time I fall, I always challenge myself to get up and not give up. It's funny how i find strength and stubbornness inside me. After all the struggles, I could finally conquer the beginner slope! OMG I was so proud of myself. On my first ski, I could already do the zig zag. I even enjoyed the speed! I'm astonished with myself. Honestly, I thought skiing looks like a fun easy game, turned out it's a real sport and you need to practice a lot.
I’m also proud that i'm brave enough to take the ski lift alone even though i have phobia of height. The lift is basically only a chair that was hanging on a rope and we sit without safety belt and hang tight to the handle. But man, the view was really fascinating I forgot about my fear.
On my second time skiing (also in Nagano), I nailed everything down so easily. Putting on ski and getting up become so easy, and even conquering a pretty steep slope without a single fall! My friend said skiing skill is like riding a bicycle, once you can, you'll never forget how to do it.
For anyone who wants to try skiing, you must add japan as your destination. It is so cheap. I got the package for only 9000 yen (around 1mio) already include bus round ticket Tokyo- Nagano), the ski outfit and equipment rental, and entrance ticket to the ski park. Even on the first one, I get for only 6000 yen because my Japanese friend manage to bargain.
8. Witnessing how independent the kindergarten students are
I bet you already heard about how smart Japanese children are. Well, I became their teacher for 4 months and witnessed it. They are using the Montessory education system. Basically, they give freedom for children to explore their own talent and interest.
First of all, they don't separate the class based on age. Children from 3-5years old are put together in to practice tolerance for each other. When we were walking to the park, the older one must held hand of the younger ones. They got 3 hours of Montessory practice each day. Basically, the children can choose one thing to do, but they have to finish it. The school has a lot of educational tools, from drawing, counting, english practicing, until sewing, coffee brewing, and even cutting flowers. I've seen a 4 years old kid drawing the map of Europe or a 3 years old boy weaving a thread. They also can learn how to write in hiragana and alphabet. They become so excel simply because they are not forced to do it! They choose what they want to do and teacher will supervise them.
During lunch time, they have day shift of those who must clean the table, help teacher putting on the plates, and get the chair ready. Then they will line up to get their food. Afterward,They pick up the left-over food from the floor and put it on the trash bin. Children must finish their food and they will have to sit until the plate is empty. They will get their own futon and change their clothes before nap. They do everything by themselves. After taking nap, they will get extra activities based on their choice such as soccer, piano, ballet, planting, and many more.
I will definitely put my children in Montessory school. I could imagine they will not only be smart, but also capable of choosing and freedom to choose from a very young age.
9. Celebrating Christmas on 9th December
Another fun fact about Japan: they don't have national holiday that is related to any religion. Even there's no Christmas Holiday. Somehow even when they are not christian (most of them are atheis), they still celebrate it. It's more like a momentum to celebrate. For teenagers, it's more like a dating thing where they must take their couple to have dinner on Christmas eve. The school where i work for, held a christmas performance on 9th of December. Lol can you imagine that? Even the city is already full of Christmas decoration since the last week of November. I told you, Japanese is so extra. They make Haloween like a national day. I went to Shibuya with my friends and everyone is walking around with a Haloween costume. The street become car free. I ask my Japanese friend "do they go to the party after this?" "nope, they have school tomorrow. they just go around with the costume and go home." wow! I admit it was so festive and you can find almost any characters. well done!
10. Gaining 5 kilos in just 2 months (GOOD FOOD IS REAL)
People, never doubt Japanese food. They like to experiment! I loathed eating sashimi back in Indonesia, but in Japan, it's very fresh and not fishy at all. I could eat 5 plate of sushi! Not to forget the almighty Ichiran Ramen and Gyukatsu Motomura! Japanese curry has also changed my mind. My favorite matcha latte of course the one i taste in kyoto (it's the origin of matcha). I also once tried green tea latte with red been paste! OMG so good. How about tea? Try Japanese barley tea (it's called mugicha). It's not something you'd like at first sip, it has a little taste of roasted coffee. But i grow liking it more everyday. My next favorite is a cheese cracker named "tokyo milkcheese". Trust me, the cheese melt in your mouth. I ate so many meet in japan, they really know how to roast it well! And they have the best kind of sauces!
Most of Japanese restaurant has an open space for cooking, but the unpleasant sides, you will leave the restaurant with hair smells like food. and it lingers for a few hours. Their restaurant are mostly small spaces compare to what we have in indonesia. and they always have place like a bar table for everyone who eats alone, it's a common thing. the secret recipe is Japanese use a lot of garlic in their food. you can find it everywhere, cooked or not.
11. Doing the cleaning job as a teacher
This one i guess is one of my hardest culture shock while living in Japan. My expectation was to only teach and play with children. Turned out the first month, i didn't even teach anything. I was only taught how to do household cleaning. Japanese has their own cleaning method. For example, I must clean the table and mop the floor in one direction. I must fold the napkin in a certain way and put the chairs and table in an exact place everyday. I also wash dishes and clean the toy with alcohol liquid to sterilised it.
On my second month, I started to do the teaching and also a cleaning job (i must clean the class during lunch and before leaving). All other teachers also do the cleaning. Basically in Japanese school and office, they rarely have cleaning service officer. The teachers do the cleaning to give example to children that everyone must clean. It's pretty impressive how they shape children's mindset from little things. The good side is now i know how to clean properly. LOL
12. Guessing whether people are fake or not all the time
There are two important factors about Japanese genes:
1. be polite and follow the right manner 2. stay out of drama and avoid problems
I had been into so many evaluation meetings with Japanese where they only come to praise each other, not even talk about the thing to evaluate. They will say you're doing a good job even when you're not. Every time the school has something to complain about me, they will not tell me directly, they will talk to my AIESEC manager. And you know what? my AIESEC Manager (who is also a Japanese) will not tell me anything, he will email my manager in Indonesia. LOL. And i found out about the complain at the end of my stay, which is kinda useless. Even during my internship time, I knew this one teacher who always make problem and they literally moved her to the administration office (she's too old to do any typing). But Japanese don't fire people, they just don't. They will put you on the place that you least fond of until you will resign by yourself.
When i came late, they would not address anything to me. They will be cold but still nice. When i got back to work after absents, every teacher would ask if i'm okay and just do the small talks. They always say you do a good job at the end of the day. but the thing is, you will never know if they do it sincerely or not. Once the teacher gave me juice after i was sick and also the headmaster take me to see Tokyo tower. As much as i'am grateful for it, i always wonder if they do it out of politeness or not. Is it part of formality?
Some of the teachers don't really want to be friends with me. Only a lot of greetings, small talks, and helpful things regarding job. It's really different with what I experienced when i had my teaching internship in Poland. Eventho the teachers also had language barrier, but they try to talk to me and we became friend, we even go out together. I asked my Japanese friend about this and she said mostly this is happening because not all Japanese like to face changes and differences. Because i'm a foreigner and a stranger. They also don't really thing English needs practice. I don't say this to generalise all Japanese because I believe the youth is more open minded, but you know most of Japanese population is not youth.
13. Paying everything with machine
You can't deep dive japan without experiencing their extra advanced technology. What awe me the most is how technology can actually make things more effective and comfortable. Technology is part of a lifestyle.
Paying your food in restaurant becomes easier with machine. They don't need cashier at all. You also choose your food through the machine and just have to give the receipt to the chef. It gives less time for you to just sit in the restaurant while choosing food. Also in supermarket, the cashier only help you to scan things on the barcode (you have to put everything in plastic by yourself). After we get the total price, we pay on the machine. The best part is when i shop in GU (one of Japanese best apparel store), they provide you machine to do all the check out by yourself. What i mean is: separate your clothes from the hanger, put in into the machine, choose your own payment method (swipe your own card if you choose credit card), and then put everything in the plastic when you're done.
I imagine if we apply that system to indonesia. The simple example is the ticket machine in commuter station. I once queue for so long just because people who are confused of how to use the machine. Eventho the machine is in Bahasa and it is so clear you just have to READ and FOLLOW the direction. This sucks but Indonesian are too lazy to read directions so i'm not sure we're ready for machine.
Another aspiring technology is in the toilet. I must say Japanese put a lot of attention to toilet. I've been to many public toilets that have so many buttons. You can have a sound of flowing water, or toilet seat that can warm itself (omg it's really useful during winter). They even have different bidet between man and woman (yes can you imagine that?). I once get into toilet that give me classical music. Dont be surprised if the seat automatically open and close whenever you come and go out from the toilet.
Those are the important and not important things that i'd like to share with you my readers. Everything in here is my honest opinion based on my environment and experience, it can be different perspectives by others. During my lifetime, i have always avoid to just being a tourist. I like to be an explorer. I don't want to just take pictures and go to touristy places, i want to talk with the locals and experience the culture. I want to observe their lifestyle. Embracing the good value of each culture. But also become more proud of Indonesia each time. And that's what i got in Japan. These moments are a blessing for me. It makes me more open minded, get to know myself, and strengthen my nationalism. If you read this, go get your chance, because sometimes it doesn't come twice. See you on my next adventure!
